Directed by Anne Fontaine
Written by Edmonde Charles-Roux
Starring the captivatingly chic and utterly French - Audrey Toutou (now, the new face of Chanel)

Chanel was perhaps the 20th Century’s most iconic fashion house, the exclusive fortress speaking allure, charm, modern yet classic and contemporary luxury garments, handbags, cosmetics and fragrance... all things individual, divine, refined and correct.

Revolutionary in her coining of the “Jersey Dress” and the “Pants Suit”, a seamstress come international fashion giant, Chanel embraced change with her designs transporting woman stylishly and tastefully from the constraints of traditional Victorian attire to the movement and glamour of box cut lines, Trousers (gasp!), shorter hems and, of course, sans corset (....sigh!)

‘Coco Avant Chanel’ chronicles the empowering journey of vision, ambition and unbridled persistence in which Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel ascends to global acclaim. Director Anne Fontaine manages to capture the polar dissimilarities defining class division in France during the turn of the 20th Century.

Stemming from an improverished orphan beginning, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel managed to rise through seemingly impenetrable social ranks, all the while stiff lipped and un-emotive in the face of her oppressors. A character who, at times, seems incapable of warmth and excitement – bar a passionate love affair with a married English Gent - lived an unconventional existence until the very end. A visual delight, the film sweeps the viewer off into a world of stately country estates in France, society parties, equestrian and picnics; in which Coco remains as much a voyeur as we do.

The film begins eventually panning in on a sullen faced Coco then proceeds to detail the drab, gray and grim grounds of a 19th century orphanage. The interior awash in Catholic restraint, bleached white sheets are crisply folded along rows of iron cots, stark and gleaming white enamel pitchers are perfectly centred in a long white room; girls in single file - all plats, long black smocks with stockings... military like in order and suit. A visual pattern becomes more decorative as the film moves through Coco’s life, though perhaps we are reminded of humble beginnings once more in the final scene. The polished, now mature and nonchalant Coco, pristinely turned out in the immaculate and iconic two piece suit and crouched on a step, armed with a cigarette. The Icon remains expressionless and motionless as her eyes pour over a gilded army of deluxe Parisian models adorned in her own Haute Couture, descending in single file down the stairway of the original Headquarters, on show to the crème de la crème of Parisian Society. The finest of fabrics following revolutionary lines, daring yet sophisticated cuts, intoxicating colour and exotic textures.... an average female viewer may easily loose her breathe in the face of such indulgence; for the first and only time during the film, I did just that.

Refinement, Order, Polish and Endurance are recurring themes throughout the film, while the introverted Coco moves through various hardships, awkwardness and periods of loneliness. Beneath this exterior resides the investigative and innovative character, a legend of fashion in the making. Transcendent and bohemian in her thrown together and often masculine ensemble, Coco breaks ALL of the rules – cutting up and re sewing men’s shirts and morfing them with her peasant’s floor length tartan frock, shocking all who cross her intriguing path. Cast out in the beginning only to ironically forge an entire doctrine of her own in later years, and one which continues to infiltrate in today’s Western rag trade.

Focusing more on the early life of Coco, and the relationships that often feebly forged along the way than years spent maintaining and progressing the Chanel brand, the film ascertains the modern school of thought that Chanel was a hard-working, slightly anti social and reclusive character – and assures the human in us that she was at the same time as being a design industry prodigy in her own right, a woman who moved mountains to find her place in the modern world.