By Erica Keppel

When generous house guests bequeath funds for “costs incurred” ... there is no better way to “incur further costs” than to road test some of our city’s latest tasty offerings.

After a quick browse through 2010’s Melbourne Good Food Guide, we booked into a strict two hour slot at Fitzroy’s “Cutler & Co” for a Friday evening meal.

Vu De Monde has debatebly paved the way for alternative culinary experiences here in Melbourne. By all accounts (and in accordance to the Good Food guide) they’re reputation for the brave and impressive is yet to be eclipsed. This is not to say, there have been no further contemporary re-workings to the fine dining experience by other establishments. Cutler & Co are proof of such developments.

From the gritty hotch potch of Gertrude Street, Cutler & Co’s chic and austere façade beams out as the area’s latest foody fix.

Moving through the initial bar area, a main dining area honors original ware house style décor, with the delicate addition of mirrors, obscure light shades and a wine cage. The kitchen hidden in the corner, here, the magic remains a mystery to diners. An air of classic elegance is felt with the assistance of attentive and discerning staff, and an in-house Wine Connoisseur who works the floor offering choice advice to those who dare.

The menu features Appetizers, A La Carte (on average $40 per meal) with the addition of a degustation choice at $130 per head. Special dining approaches on paper read a little complicated to the naked eye, and require some instruction (and in my case further repetition) from warm wait staff. The Desgustation course lists a highly articulate selection of seven options, with appetizers and desserts, while the A la carte menu dabbles in a few modern takes to local favourites.

With consideration for not only our physical but financial figures, we each opted for a main from the al la carte menu, along with a bottle of Huia – a crisp, and slightly dry Marlborough (NZ) Sauvignon to share.

The schedule read as follows:

Roast suckling pig, sweet sour onion and prune vinegar

Pan roast Leather Jacket, fennel pollen and Cuttlefish braise

Line caught Snapper, broad beans, glazed shallots and potato aioli

Food was delivered in a jiffy – with just enough time to giggle with a glass of wine, and enjoy fresh bread rolls. Our selection took a chic spin on homely flavors – the “pig” complete with a fashionably neat cut of cracking, the Cuttlefish served in steaming shells and Israeli couscous, and the Snapper sparked the usual food envy. Emphasis was on the delicate balance of modern flavours, as well as traditional, warming ingredients. Snazzy presentation combined with confident wait staff set the tone for a quality feed. On completion of our feast, we were somewhat satisfied with our choices (perhaps not the leather jacket this time around..), though not compelled to delve further into the deserts.

The meticulously arranged mini choc chip cookies were a gorgeous complimentary touch – and certainly not lacking in the decadence department. We left feeling overly replete, and less curious than before.

To tantalize your taste buds online, visit Cutler & Co's website cutlerandco.com.au

Cutler & Co
55-57 Gertrude Street
Fitzroy 3065
P. 9419 4888