By Erica Keppel

With a name conjuring up old world cool, and all things refined yet a tad risqué and well worn, Panama Dining Hall exists as a modern day urban Tardis.

Patrons approach an ineffective Smith Street entrance, only to climb several flights of Himalayan style stairs, complete with various decoys (namely - “Rice Queen” - Huh? - you may ask.. - a sister Restaurant) along the way. Treasure, however whets intrigue’s appetite, as behind the very last door lies a very intimate and classy establishment indeed. With the option of a Bar, Lounging booths or a fully fledged Al la Carte Restaurant on the one premises, the venue resides as a first class, dimly lit Bohemian sanctuary.

The Bar and lounge Bar dons polished dark wooden floors, leather booths and a uniquely framed view of surrounding Fitzroy, and the City in the distance. The staff are well dressed, attentive yet appropriately invisible. The wine list is impressive, despite a small selection of recession friendly drops, it tends to take a swift step up to a wide range of European Whites, Roses, Reds and Sparkling (Predominantly French, Spanish and Italian in origin) for the discerning palate, by bottle or glass – and why not, your worth it?!

The Food, the food...the food, where to begin?! A Tapas style bar menu consisting of around 15 dishes (between $7 - $20 per dish), includes polished Bread and Spreads options as well as Piquilla Peppers, stuffed with Goats cheese and basil; Almonds roasted with smoked paprika and Grynere cheese fritters to name just a few. A few of these little numbers combined with the right refreshments suit a late night bite or an early evening prelude to dinner for a couple or a group.

The Restaurant offers an elegant selection of entrees (between $16-$18 per dish) – including the Parmesan Brulee served with local Asparagus and a Truffle Dressing..mmmm.., followed by an exquisite main menu (between $28-$31 per dish) boasting Slow cooked stuffed veal & a gallette of potato & fontina (Italian cheese), perhaps a side of Fennel and orange salad... among many others.

And if the taste-o-rama of the first two courses wasn’t enough, deserts such as the Vairhona Chocolate Fondent (GOT to love the word!) served with poached cherries and praline ice cream will twist even the most stubborn of arms. Polish this extreme team of meat, vege and sweets off with a decadently French cheese board accompanied by a little snort of Muscat, and your home and hosed, not to mention a tad sleepy.

Panama Dining Hall is my favourite Melbourne spot to enjoy a staggered evening with good friends – with all of the trimmings (minus the cigars). This is the place where a 5pm drink blissfully melts away into an unexpected 2am departure, where your every culinary desire is catered for under one (possibly quite shabby) roof.

A perfectly joyous explosion of great taste, great atmosphere, great service and fabulous indulgences, Panama Dining Hall is something quite special.

THE PANAMA DINING ROOM AND BAR

Level 3/231 Smith St, Fitzroy
Phone: (03) 9417 7663
www.thepanama.com.au/